There is an old saying that "birds of a feather flock together." As any hunter knows, there is a lot of truth in that statement.

Most game birds are flock-oriented - some more than others, but all to at least some degree - and normally take comfort in being around others of their own kind. One of the first things they do when settling in on the ground to feed or drink is to look for the presence of other members of their species. Ducks of all types are especially prone to socialize, which is one reason why any waterfowling trip normally involves the placement of a significant spread of decoys.

Nothing says safety louder than the sight of a number of their cohorts already bobbing comfortably on the water's surface. Add a few calls to provide the right vocal stimulus, and passing ducks are far more likely to drop in than fly on.

Geese are also similarly inclined. No goose hunter would seriously consider setting up in a feeding field without a good-sized spread of decoys out in front of the shooting position.

Even turkeys can be susceptible to decoys, especially during the spring breeding season.

Getting some of your decoys elevated, particularly around water holes, is a key to success. Photo by Tony Clifton

When it comes to doves, however, decoys are not as widely used as they are for other species. In some cases, that can be a mistake.

Doves do respond to decoys, and they do it for the same reason as other game birds. Seeing what they believe to be other doves already on the scene is a confidence builder and gives them a sense that everything is all right. But they don't do it in precisely the same manner as ducks or geese. Don't expect a large spread of decoys to bring doves in for a landing with wings set, at least not under most circumstances. In some situations, however, they can make a significant difference in the number of birds that zip within range. In other cases, they may well be a waste of time.

When it comes to selecting dove decoys, there aren't a lot of options. A limited selection is available. Generally they are full-bodied, molded plastic with some form of clip on the bottom that can be jammed into the ground, or slipped over a slender tree limb or fence wire. These are the most effective choice, and they're not particularly expensive or heavy to tote. A couple dozen can easily be carried in a plastic garbage or net bag, and that's really as many as are needed.

Another option is a simple cardboard cutout of a dove that forms a silhouette. Add a small piece of coat hanger to the bottom and they can be stuck into the ground wherever needed.

These cutouts are an idea that looks great on paper but fares poorly in the real word. My experience with them in the field has ranged from mediocre, at best, to very negative. They tend to spook more birds then they tempt. If dove decoys are desired, stick with the full-bodied plastic models. Here's how they are best used.

PASS-SHOOTING
Locate a dove flight path connecting a feeding or watering area with a roosting site and you can have some pretty hot shooting during the morning and evening hours. But it's also a situation in which decoys are a waste of time.

When doves are heading between points A and B, I have yet to see a situation in which decoys made even the slightest difference in their flight. They know where they are going and are usually in a hurry to get there. Seeing a handful of doves in a spot where they don't intend to land seldom alters that. Basically, they just ignore them and barrel along on their way.

Hunters who find a good pass-shooting spot get a better reward for their time spent if they analyze the flight paths to find the best shooting position, rather than spending the time needed to put out the decoys.

If you're shooting where the doves intend to wind up, however, decoys can be well worth the time. There are two situations in which decoys should be employed - on a field and at a water hole.